thefutureisred

Photo Essay: Bathe the Rejuvenating Waters of Argentine History

This past weekend, we took my parents to the Hotel Termas in Rosario de la Frontera. It lies about half-way on Ruta 34 between Tucuman and Salta. The website makes it look absolutely spectacular. Lush grounds, beautiful interior with thermal waters, a spa menu full of luxurious treatments and a restaurant that comes highly recommended.

The reality of the place is a bit different. That is not to say it's not a place worth visiting. In fact, this hotel and spa lets you take a step back in time about 100 years, when a sanitarium was a place where the rich went to rest and relax and not just for the insane.

As we drove in the front gate, my mother asks somewhat reluctantly, "Is it me? Or does this look a lot like an old age home?" We all had to agree. Yes, Hotel Termas appears very much as convalescent home meets T. Coraghessan Boyle's The Road to Wellville meets The Shining.

I know, I know. I'm not making this place sound very appealing, just bear with me. This place plays a part of history. Built in 1880, when visionary Antonio Palau realized the therapeutic nature of hot waters found underground. Since then, the termas have been a place for Argentine writers, celebrities and politicians to escape and rejuvenate.

Above you see the entrance to the hotel building. Behind the hotel lies a separate building holding the spa, comedor, baths and an outdoor pool filled with the warm thermal waters.

This photo of Dr Palau hangs in the front part of the spa building.

I originally hoped to spend the night in the hotel, then we could spend a full day taking advantage of the services the spa and baths offered. Unfortunately, the hotel itself was fully booked for the entire time my parents would be here.

Thus, we decided to drive the 175 kilometers to the spa from Salta for the day. The road between Salta and Tucuman is a main route and well paved, so the ride lasts approximately one and a half hours. We arrived just as lunch hours began.

Noah had heard rave reviews of the food at this lunch room. And really, it wasn't bad at all. The menu offers standard Argentine cuisine: lomo, empadanas, bife de chorizo. Noah ordered lomo that comes with a tomato-onion sauce and a fried egg on top. Not a combo that comes easily to the American palate, but try it before you knock it. It's heavy, but really good.

Then onto the bath and spa.

Unfortunately, the spa closed for siesta after lunch, so we contented ourselves with a walk through the facilities, ending with a fifteen minute immersion bath in their boiling, yet healing waters.

The upstairs level houses a gymnasium that looks down onto an outdoor pool. Water comes directly from the heated waters below ground as well. Notice the crack in the window? The gymnasium itself isn't much different, but it's fascinating to see the original window frames, tile and walls of the building.

Lower level, behind the bath you'll find this old area where people once enjoyed immersion soaks and mud baths. These days, the area is under construction but you still pass through to go to the showers and change rooms. Those three jugs in front offer mineral water for every occasion. Laxative. Constitution. And I never did find out what zarza -- or blackberry -- water will do for you.

Any thoughts? Please let me know.

Voila! The main bath hall. My parents almost bailed (ie run away as fast as possible) when they first saw those back rooms. It's not entirely well signed, so we thought that was the bath area. Yes, this still looks quite hospital-like, but it was a relief to realize this is where we would find our relaxation and rejuvenation and not the crumbling back area filled with concrete bags.


This is the bath in which you soak. Well, some of them anyway. Many of the tubs have already been replaced with new, cleaner more modern options, but a few originate from the late 1800s.

You soak for fifteen minutes in the tub, during which an attendant returns to add more hot water. Afterward, you lie under blankets for another fifteen to relax. I fell asleep.

Like I said, the place is not your every day spa-filled luxury, but I'm glad we went. I'm not sure how much longer you'll have the opportunity to see this little piece of Argentine history in its current state. Oh, and if you're wondering, the bath itself was quite wonderful. It relaxed me for the rest of the day, and I fell asleep early that night.

Renovations have already begun, after which the plan is to begin publicizing the bath house.  I'm betting the old, bath house, am-I-in-a-hospital feeling will soon fade and be replaced with something far more sleek and new, which is fine, if that's your thing.

Otherwise, if you're driving route 34 -- also ruta 9 in this part of the country -- slow down and take a look.

How To Navigate A Health Emergency While In Salta, Argentina

So you're in Salta for vacation and find yourself in need of a doctor. What are you going to do?

Last March, when Noah was seriously ill, I learned about a doctor here in Salta who both makes house calls and treats extraneros (foreigners). That is, not every doctor here will treat you if you don't have obras sociales, health insurance. 

This is a good option. You will receive solid, compassionate health care from a doctor who -- certainly in our case -- is thorough and takes time to answer all questions. We felt heard and never once felt rushed.

Another option I recently learned after returning to Salta with some sort of cold that got worse, then my throat started hurting. A cough set in. I tried all my herbal remedy tricks, but ultimately realized I needed something stronger.

This time, I visited Santa Clara de Asis hospital in Salta city center. Santa Clara is a private hospital with a clinic located on the first floor.

What's the intake procedure?

You walk in and immediately go to the desks at the right for an intake. There, someone will ask what you want. You simply say to see a doctor. You will also pay for your visit here. Then, you take your receipt, walk through the blue doors at the back left of the lobby and wait for your name to be called.

How did the doctors visit go?

He called me in, asked my complaints. One look at my throat later, he diagnosed me with pharyngitis and wrote out a prescription for penicillin. I was given a choice of either pills or a one shot does. I went for the shot.

I filled the prescription at a pharmacy on the same block, open 24 hours. Apparently, the pharmacy also has a nurse on hand to administer shots at times. Since the nurse was not available at the pharmacy that Saturday morning, I returned to the hospital for a nurse to do it.

How long will the whole process take?

I visited on a Saturday afternoon. Things were calm, not at all busy and I waited a total of 30 minutes for the doctor. The doctor visit took about 15 minutes.  I also waited in line 20 minutes at the pharmacy to fill my antibiotic prescription then waited again 20 minutes at the hospital for the nurse to give me the shot. 

Altogether, about 90 minutes. Much faster than I expected, although I cannot vouch for how long things will take during a more busy time.

How much will it cost?

Cost of Consulation: 55 pesos
Antibiotics: 30 pesos
Antibiotics administration: 10 pesos (yes, I had to pay for this separately)
Total cost: Approximately 23 dollars.

Will the doctor speak English or any other language other than Spanish?

Chances are your doctor will only speak Spanish -- called castellano in Argentina -- but Salteños tend to be very patient and are more than willing to repeat or try a different method of communication until you understand.

Don't hesitate to ask for clarification. Don't worry about feeling stupid or annoying the doctor. This is your health. It's far more important to make sure the communication is clear.

Some Vocabulary Words To Help You Along

• Doctor -- Medico
• Nurse -- Enfermera
• Antiobiotics -- Antiobioticas
• Basic list of body parts.
• Pain -- Dolores
• Fever -- Fiebre.
• Counting to 100

Remember, Argentina temperature works in Celsius instead of Fahrenheit, so it's not a bad idea to know the basic conversion before you go.

Santa Clara de Asis Hospital Privado

Address:  Urquiza 954 (off the corner of Jujuy)
Tel: 0387-4321440 or 4321441
Hours: Clinic open 24 hours/ 7 days

If you find yourself here in Salta sick and stuck, please feel free to send me an e-mail with questions or anything else. I am also more than happy to accompany you to the hospital. Plenty of people have gone out of their way for our benefit. I appreciate the opportunity to pass along the kindness we've received.

Photo courtesy of Yadnammmm.

I'm Breakin' Open A Big Can of Assy!

 

Guess what I got!

Lucky me. I found a couple of these little buggers running around the crown of my head. Yep. Lice. Also known here in Argentina as piojos.

Here's what I learned about lice. If you find and catch an adult, it means there are probably many, many more you cannot see. It also means, the entire family has to be treated. Oh yes, Jen is visiting, so she has to be treated too. Oh what a joy of an evening this has been!

Luckily, though, no one else seems to have anything running, biting or laying eggs among their locks. I am the only member of the household to be what the Center for Disease Control recommendations for treating lice terms an "actively infected individual." Apparently, my long, curly luxurious hair is just what every louse wants.

Luckily, also, I knew exactly what I needed. All I needed was a little bit of ASSY!. Yes, ASSY! I first found ASSY in the supermarket in Buenos Aires. The can of ASSY ESPUMA you see pictured here was originally destined to join my little collection of odd and funny products like Bag Balm from New Hampshire, Cock Soup from St Croix and Fish Paste with Bloaters from South Africa.

Turns out life and destiny had other plans.

The reality is lice are often a part of traveling. Lila's in school, and kids transfer lice one to the other. It's also highly possible I got mine trying on hats in San Pedro de Atacama or from a haircut in Salta last month.

Last time I had piojos -- I like saying it in Spanish, because it somehow sounds better -- was Israel. The local makolet had a treatment product which required I soak my hair in this toxic sludge then cover with a plastic bag and sit for 3 hours. Three very long hours.

And because you also have to wash all bed linens, recently worn clothes and the like, all I had available to wear was a bathing suit. It was just then that I and my apartment mates, who were also treated for piojos, decided we might as well clean the entire apartment. So somewhere out there is a picture of my 17-year-old self in a bathing suit, head wrapped in a plastic shopping bag with a knife in one hand, hairdryer in the other as I attempt to defrost a very well frozen freezer.

Giving more thanks, somewhere between post-high school Israel and present day Argentina, there have been great strides in the treatment of piojos. Most times, you need only wash your hair once and leave it sit for ten minutes. You can also find non-toxic treatments deemed safe for children.

The tedious part, though, is combing out the nits. You'll find and use an unbelievably fine toothed comb and must search thoroughly and carefully every two or so days until you are absolutely sure all piojos and eggs are gone. 

I'll have you know, with the amount and thickness of my hair, this process takes approximately two hours. Two. Full. Hours. Of. Nit. Picking.

It's also good to keep in mind that there are some non-toxic herbal methods available for piojos treatment. Tea tree oil and lavender essential oils, in particular. Tea tree oil repels the adults, kills the eggs and will help eliminate any infections caused by scratching. Lavender serves a similar purpose, but also helps soothe itching and heal bites. They work well and can be happily, non-poisonously used every day on wet or dry hair. Even with these treatments, though, you still have to comb.

I carry both oils in my travel medicine kit. Generally for other purposes, but who knew my two favorite oils would come in so handy. My particular bottle of lavender comes from the amazing Chateau du Bois lavender fields in Provence. These fields lie between Rousillon and Gordes, two fabulously beautiful cities each built out of the rock found where the cities are built. Rousillon, a striking ochre. Or the beautiful light pink of Gordes that deepens to orange then transforms to grey, yellow or white as the sun's fancy strikes.

So yes, keep that beautiful image in your minds as you try to keep from scratching your heads. Don't worry, though, chances are you don't have anything. At least, I'm pretty sure you didn't get it from me.

UPDATE 8.13.09: I managed to get my hands on some cinnamon and tea tree essential oils, both of which are extremely effective in managing and ridding yourself of lice. Best way to apply? Mix a solution of half apple cider or white vinegar and half warm water, then add 5 drops of whichever oil you prefer. Or both. Then apply to hair until wet all over, wrap up in a plastic bag and let sit for as long as you can. I usually go for an hour or two. Then wash, rinse, condition and comb out with a lice comb.

Keep in mind that they the oils can be irritating, especially the cinnamon oil, so don't apply them without diluting them first.

Medical Emergencies While Traveling Through Salta

So my haitus has been quite a bit longer than expected. After all, a week in internet time is an eternity.

Lila and I are fine, but Noah just isn't getting better. He has been in bed for days, but I started to worry when he began to be verbally unresponsive. So we've been forced to explore the health care system in Salta.

This is what I learned:

You can call for a doctor to make a non-emergency house call any time of day or night. That number is 0387 4212123 (NOTE: The previous number I posted was not correct. I have updated and verified this one) and is specifically for travelers, non-nationals and those who don't have health insurance.

It's 55 pesos for the visit. That's, roughly, 15 dollars. It still floors me how much cheaper quality health care can be outside the US. It's better to take a house call before going to the hospital. Your hospital visit goes more smoothly with the house call recommendations.

It may take a couple hours for the doctor to arrive. The doctors are extremely thorough and seem to have a strong working knowledge of herbal medicine in addition to allopathic.

The doctor who visited our casita last night was calm, patient and took his time as he ruled out everything from drug interactions to meningitis.

Bottom line? No emergency run to the hospital. We will, though, take Noah for bloodtests in order to rule out any infections or diseases, because "we are, after all, near Bolivia and Paraguay."

Thank you to Monica, our upstairs neighbor who helped me navigate the system, find the doctor and even drove Lila to school this morning. Actually, thank you doesn't quite cover my gratitude.

Thank you also to AJ, who sent constant e-mail support. And thank you to you Twitterfolk @olivosartstudio @vickybaker @umarket @integralhack @claibornem who provided insight, information and support. Funny how people you've never met can become a community.

Yes, Yesterday Began Well

I was out at Playa Mango about to get in the pool with Lila, Melissa, Kai and Teo when I got a call from Marike. It didn't immediatlely strike me as strange that a woman from Noah's work was calling. The next thought was "Uh oh!"

"Don't worry. He's fine, but I'm in the emergency room with Noah."

"OK," I replied, because I knew he probably was really, truly fine, but I had to wait to hear what she said. It's amazing how long those few seconds can last, and the thoughts racing through my head were that fine means different things to different people, and fine can also be a way of easing a bad blow.

Thankfully, he is fine. Really fine, like the kind of fine I want him to be if not banged up and bruised a bit.

He and Marike went snorkeling to check the fish cages and he accidently banged his foot against some coral. It didn't bleed while he remained in the water, but as soon as they got out, blood began to pour. Marike took a look at his foot and saw it had been sliced down to the bone.

"Come on, we're going to the hospital," she said and away they went.

Since it wasn't life threatening, I decided to let Lila play in the water for a while before heading to meet them. What good would have been for her to sit in the emergency room just waiting? The boat that picked me up at Playa Mango dropped me off at the beach right behind the hospital. He brought us close to the shore, but I still had to wade quite a bit before I reached dry sand. I was glad to be dropped so close, otherwise, I would have had to carry Lila a good half a mile to get there, but he gave me such attitude about it. Lord, he's the one who chose that drop off point. I woudn't have known about it. Anyway, I arrived just after Noah's foot had been stitched back together (seis puntas), received a tetanus shot and was ready to go.

A huge thank you to Marike for insisting he go immediately to the hospital, driving him there and waiting.until I arrived, soaked and dragging mud on my shoes.We took her out for dinner to say thank you, then negotiated the trip back with Lila sleeping in my arms, a couple bags of groceries and poor Noah, shoeless, hopping down the street, then climbing over one boat to reach the another so we could get home.

He really is fine. He can't get his foot into his shoe and try finding a pair of size 14 chancletas in Panama, and I guess he'll be hopping around the house for the next few days. But fine