Argentina By Bus: Travel At Night, Travel in Style

Traveling by bus in the United States elicits images of sitting in cramped seats, rank smelling bathroom -- if there is one -- leaking noxious odors from the back while some guy rests his knee in your lap so he can more comfortably clip his toenails. That's if you're lucky enough not to be sitting next to the ever-mumbling crazy who may well be on his way to serial killer fame.

It also takes forever. What would be 10 hours by car, can easily become a 24 hour bus ride that feels like a lifetime. I've done it, but generally for short distances and only when I can't find a somewhat decent flight alternative.

In Argentina buses are an entirely different animal. In Argentina, seats recline far enough for comfortable sleep. There's a porter who runs back and forth serving meals and drinks, an in-trip movie, and buses are significantly less expensive than flying. The average 10-15 hour distance costs, approximately 75-100 dollars. That can take you from Salta to Cordoba, Cordoba to Mendoza, Neuquen to Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires to Salta or Buenos Aires to Iguazu.

After three of these such rides in the past couple weeks, I can personally attest to the fact that they are the perfect way to travel, particularly overnight which has the added benefit of saving you a night's accomodation.

A typical night goes as such: You arrive at the station and get on board. Within the hour, the porter -- always unbelievably friendly and patient -- comes to take your drink order. This never fails to surprise me. Then dinner is served.

I'll admit, it's generally a strange mix of foods for my still-very-American-bred tastes, usually packed with breads, crackers, cookies and other various carbohydrate options.

Here you'll see our dinner between Cordoba and Neuquen. Bread roll, half sandwich on white bread, half sandwich on brown bread, pionono -- rolled sandwich on yellowish bread -- and a little packet of bread sticks. On the top left you'll find your desert, sweet jam with quesillo, a raw cheese. Try it! It's not at all bad. Dinners also often include a hot dish ranging from roasted chicken with potatoes to lasagna.

Dinner can occupy you for an hour or so until it's lights out, movie on,and you're finally lulled to sleep by the gentle roaring of the motor. Oh, depending on your ticket type, you might offered a nightcap of whiskey that comes on the rocks in a glass tumbler.

Most times, I wake up just as we're pulling into the next town. 

Comments

[Ken]

I guess the message is: don't take the bus in Argentina when on Atkins.

[Ken]

Also, this somehow seems the karmic opposite to: http://thefutureisred.typepad.com/onedayatatime/2009/02/the-parable-of-the-bus-driver.html

[Leigh Shulman]

Very true. I will say, though, the evil bus driver bit was meant to be fiction, although I don't think it was a particularly successful piece of fiction. Perhaps this calls for an edit?

It's also the difference between bus drivers within the city of Salta and the national large chain buses. Those in Salta terrify me. They'll start moving while you still have one foot on the bus. Once, I was holding Lila by the hand, her swinging in the air outside the open door while others on the bus yelled for the driver to "Para Para Para."

It's strange, too, because Saltenos across the board are some of the kindest, most considerate people I have met anwhere.

[Leigh Shulman]

There is no place for Atkins or South beach here. I can't imagine how a vegetarian with a wheat allergy would survive. (Ok, hyperbole, but you'd certainly have to search around more for food options)

I have been hearing, though, from many people that there's a sudden rise in celiac among Argentinians and whispers of the need to cut down on wheat and meat.

[Steven Roll]

Leigh, interesting post. When we were on our vacation in Mexico last month my wife and kids and I took the bus from Guadalajara to Puerto Vallarta. It was pretty similar to what you described. We saw about three movies and had some snacks. It was a nice way to see a good portion of the country. Driving would have been pretty stressful.

[Audrey]

When my mother told me she took my grandmother on an overnight bus in Argentina last fall, I was shocked. I had images of them cramped in small seats missing half their cushioning. Then she explained that it was more like an airplane with full service and the food wasn't half bad. I'm looking forward to trying them for myself soon!